PARTS FOR EVERY E-BIKE
Controllers, displays, motors and sensors for e-bikes of every brand — including bikes whose maker is long gone. We help you identify the right part, then show you how to fit it.
Tell us what's wrong. We'll build the exact parts list.
Pick your bike (or type in its specs), tell us the symptom, and get a priced kit that fits - wheel size, dropout width, brakes, voltage and controller-to-display communication all checked. Parts ship from U.S. stock.
Fixed or refunded — if the kit we picked doesn't fix it, send it back
1 technician fit check before anything ships
STEP 1Your bike
STEP 2The problem
STEP 3Parts list & price
STEP 4Review & checkout
Step 1 · Your bike
Pick your model from the list. Not on the list? Enter the specs by hand — they're all printed on the bike.
Why we ask this — seven numbers decide whether a part can physically fit
- Motor position — a rear hub kit cannot replace a motor that lives at the cranks.
- Wheel size — a hub motor is laced into one rim diameter and can never be moved to another.
- Tire width — decides the rim width we lace to, and whether the wheel clears your frame.
- Rear dropout width — the axle has to sit in that gap. 170 and 190 mm look identical by eye; measure it.
- Brake type — a disc wheel has a rotor flange, a rim-brake wheel has a braking surface. They are different wheels.
- Battery voltage — gate one of three. A controller that does not cover your voltage will not run, or will burn.
- Motor watts — sets the controller current we pick. Too small is gutless, too large cooks the motor.
None of these is about your electronics protocol — that we work out from your bike model and your photos, in how we diagnose.
Specs
Tire size is printed on the sidewall (e.g. 26 x 4.0). Dropout width is the inside gap between the rear frame ends with the wheel out — measure it, don't guess: 170 and 190 mm look alike.
Step 2 · What's the problem?
Pick the one that matches best. Each symptom comes with a free check to try first — many dead-looking bikes are a loose plug.
Why we ask this — the symptom decides whether you need one part or a whole kit
Each symptom is a branch of the fault tree a technician would walk: free checks first, then the cheapest part that could cause it, then the next one. Picking a symptom switches us from “replace the whole drive” to “replace the part that is actually broken”, which is usually a fraction of the price. If you are not sure, leave it blank and we will quote the complete kit.
Three questions about your motor
Answer these and we can usually keep your motor and sell you only the electronics — the difference between a few hundred dollars and a whole drive kit. Do them with the bike switched off.
Why we ask this — a healthy motor is the difference between a part and a whole kit
Hub motors fail far less often than the electronics that drive them. Roughness when you spin the wheel means bad bearings or a stripped gear; a cut, scorched or water-stained motor cable means the windings may be damaged; a crash or a deep puddle explains both. If all three answers are no, the fault is almost certainly in the controller, display or wiring — and we can leave your wheel on the bike. Full reasoning is in how we diagnose.
Add to the kit (optional)
Step 3 · Your parts list
How we got to this list — the full reasoning, step by step
[INTERNAL] This timeline is generated by the same engine that picks the parts, so it always matches the list you are looking at. Records marked unverified come from public teardowns and factory documents, not from our own bench.
What you get under every part — four things, always
- Why this part fits your bike — the voltage, current, protocol family and connector that made us pick this exact part.
- What we guarantee — a technician checks the list against your photos before it ships, and if it will not fit or will not run we upgrade you to the full system at no extra charge or refund you.
- What we can't guarantee — that the first box is a perfect fit on the first try. Nobody can promise that on a bike they have never had in their hands.
- Confirm before we ship — the one thing we need you to check or photograph so the fit check has something to work with.
Step 4 · Review & checkout
A technician checks fit against your bike before anything ships. If something doesn't fit, we swap it or refund it.
Included with every kit: technician fit confirmation, wiring and plug sheet for your exact parts, U.S. shipping.
Controllers & Displays
Controllers and displays are supplied as factory-paired, tested sets. Communication protocols differ between brands — a display bought on its own often will not talk to your controller, even when the plug fits. Buying the pair removes that risk.
Motors & Wheels
Hub motors and complete motor wheels in 20-inch and 26-inch, fat and standard tire widths. Measure your dropout width before ordering: 135mm is standard, fat-tire frames use 170mm or 190mm, and those two are not interchangeable.
Sensors & Wiring
Cadence sensors, throttles, brake levers and wiring harnesses. Before you replace a sensor, check the assist level, the brake levers and the magnet gap — around 80% of pedal-assist faults turn out not to need a new part at all.
We Check the Fit First
Send us four photos and we will confirm the part fits your bike before you order.
Fitment Confirmed Before You Buy
Free U.S. Shipping
Parts ship from the U.S. so your bike is off the road for days, not weeks.
Not Sure Which Part You Need?
- Pedals but no power? The fault is in the pedal-assist chain, not the motor. Five checks, four are free →
- Motor running on its own? Stop riding and remove the battery. Read this first →
- New display won't talk to your controller? Why the plug fitting is not enough →
- Motor jerks or won't spin after a swap? The phase and hall wiring guide →
- Buying a wheel or motor? Measure your dropout width first →